With beautiful mountain ranges and sweeping vineyards galore, the Napa Valley doesn’t have to work hard to enrapture visitors. So, it’s a rare restaurant there that somehow manages to outdo that bucolic setting and transport you elsewhere.

That establishment is Angele Restaurant & Bar in downtown Napa, where dining feels like a blissful getaway to the lovely countryside of France.

Owner Bettina Rouas opened the restaurant on the banks of the Napa River in 2002, naming it for her grandmother.

The comfortable warmth you feel at Angele is no accident, not when Rouas hails from a family renowned for its hospitality. Her father Claude Rouas owned legendary L’Etoile in San Francisco and opened Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford.

Having grown up doing her homework after school at L’Etoile, she seemed destined to follow in his footsteps, especially after working for years later at Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa, Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, and The French Laundry in Yountville.

She chose to make her mark in the historic 1893 Hatt Building originally built to supply ships with goods.

That kitchen has had a number of impressive chefs lead it over the years, including Rogelio Garcia, now of Michelin-starred Auro in the Four Seasons Napa Valley in Calistoga; and Phillip Moratin, now of Charlie Palmer Steak in the Archer Hotel in Napa. The current chef is Josue Alvarado, who worked his way up through the restaurant.

Marked by its French blue and white striped awning and umbrellas like a seaman’s shirt, the restaurant still possesses a maritime spirit with a dining room boasting soaring wood rafters.

It’s hard to turn down a table outside on the expansive patio, though, that’s done up with string lights, and plenty of lush greenery. With a sturdy roof to guard against the elements, it also features ceiling fans and heaters, as well as wind drapes that can be unfurled as needed.

That’s where my husband and I chose to sit on a recent visit. Although we paid our tab, the kitchen sent out a few dishes on the house.

On a warm evening, kick back with a house cocktail (all $18), such as the House Gin & Tonic that gets an especially refreshing oomph from house-made tonic; and the Strawberry Pimm’s, a bracing, none-too-sweet blend of Pimm’s No. 1, strawberry-infused gin, ginger, and a touch of lemon.

The burnished, crisp baguette and soft butter that come complimentary is just what you want to start any French repast. However, the house-baked brioche ($16) beckons. Big time. Imbued with rosemary and a hint of honey, it arrived glossy and bronzed like a model on holiday on the French Riviera. It’s tender and fluffy, with just the right amount of sea salt sprinkled on top.

Corn soup was a special that day, and worth getting anytime it’s available. Served chilled, it has the color of butter and the texture of velvet. Dotted prettily with tiny blossoms, it had the intense taste of sweet summer corn even if we’re a week away from the official start of that season.

Burrata ($24) was adorned with the best of spring — English peas, fava beans, and asparagus, adding a lush touch to the gently cooked and seasoned veggies.

The pate de Campagne ($19) is a looker. A thick slice, rimmed in fat, was centered on a plate with cornichons, radishes, pickled peppers, and dabs of mustard arranged around it like numbers on a clock. Both coarse and smooth in texture, the pate had colorful chunks of carrots and pistachios within, adding pops of sweetness and nuttiness.

Escargot ($21) arrived bubbling hot in a cast-iron pan. What I especially liked about this version is that the garlic butter sauce was loaded with parsley, giving it a lot more body.

Thick and meaty tasting veal sweetbreads ($36) were napped with a deeply concentrated veal-wine jus, and came on a huge bed of turnips and potatoes.

House-made, supple strands of tagliatelle ($36) were heaped with English peas, fava beans, asparagus, and chanterelles. The vivid spring-has-sprung dish was finished with Parmesan and lemon juice. It was somehow hearty yet light tasting, too.

For dessert, the warm peach galette really satisfied with its jammy stone fruit and crisp, buttery crust. It was served with some of the richest and creamiest vanilla ice cream I’ve had in a while. House-made, of course.

More ice cream arrived — this time in the flavor of creme fraiche that tasted like cheesecake. It was garnished with strawberries and a crispy spiral of sugared puff pastry.

Angele is the type of place that locals return to again and again. On the night we were there, it was only mere minutes before any one party departed that their table would be efficiently reset and the next guests seated. Even at 9 p.m., the restaurant was still bustling and seating guests. Such is the charm and allure of this slice of France in Napa.